Elle n'illustre pas grand chose la vidéo, pas de technique particulière et pas de houle.

Hum regarde mieux et essaye de comprendre sont anglais, tu prend une vague en surf > arriver pres du bord tu sort de la vague > tu essayes de suivre au maximum le dos de vague > tu sort vite avant que la vague suivante arrive. C'est souvent utilise en surf ski. Pas super en beach break mais sur des vagues longue c'est tres efficace.

For many of us there is often one thing standing between us and a nice fishing session in the ocean: the surf! In some sheltered areas it’s hardly worth mentioning, and waves that form 10-40cm will hardly challenge anybody on the way out. Along the open unsheltered coast, the surf is an entirely different story. Huge waves, rips, gutters and so on. It's worth noting from the outset that as a general rule the waves are higher at high tide, and lower at low tide.

So how to get out?

First check the beach; is it free of obstructions (also underwater), and do you feel confident to manage the conditions with your skills? If not - go somewhere else or come back later. If they look all right, get your boat, pack everything under deck or strap it down (or it will probably be lost), put your PFD on and get ready while you already keep an eye out for the wave patterns. Often there will be a pattern like 3 big ones followed by 2 smaller ones or something similar. When you’ve figured it out, pull your boat knee-deep into the water, and wait for the right moment. Timing is everything.

Focus on the area where the waves break and you want to make sure you come through this area (danger area) before the next wave breaks (or is just about to and very steep). The white foamy stuff is normally not too bad, and you can cut straight through. So when the window of opportunity is there, jump in, and start paddling like a mad dog. When a wave approaches you, sprint towards it, and when your bow comes up throw your weight forward, dig the paddle into the cap of the wave, and pull through. You’ll be out in no time; keep paddling till you are well behind the line of surf, turn and check on your mates, and rig up. There you go – ready to fish.

If you’ve got a rookie in your group he should be in the middle, between the experienced guy’s ( so there’s somebody on the beach and behind the breakers in case he needs some assistance), if you are only 2, the newbie goes first, so there’s help to pull him (or the yak) out of the water if needed. That was the easy part, but…


How to get back in?

Well there are different possibilities. First we group up again, de-rig our kayaks (paying special attention to anything that can be broken or become a lethal weapon), and store everything under deck. Then we assess the beach and waves again - wave patterns, obstructions( e.g. rocks or reef), where would be the best launch spot, and so on. To surf the wave is normally the quickest and most elegant way to come in, but not necessarily the safest or easiest with heavy fishing yaks. The good thing is you spend a short time in the danger zone, the bad thing is : you can be dumped it the soup quite heavily if it goes wrong. You’ve got several possibilities here (often they mix up).

A: Count the set’s, get your timing right and hammer in on the back of the last wave all the way to the beach (very elegant, but often the timing is not as right as you might think when you start off , and the next wave catches up with you). You'll probably need to go pretty fast, so unless you're confident you can beat the breakers in, consider one of the alternative scenarios...

B: Surf the wave to the beach. Sprint ahead of a wave; when your stern lifts, transfer weight forward to start surfing, as soon as you are surfing transfer the weight to the back, to prevent the bow from digging in (which means capsizing rather spectacularly).

Often the kayak will veer to the left or right, let it turn, (you won’t straighten her out again), brace and lean towards the wave and keep surfing in that direction (or exit the wave). If you fall in, keep the yak between you and the beach, it might develop a life of it’s own when the next wave approaches, and a kayak surfing on you is quite capable of breaking a bone or knocking you out!

C: Sideways: this is a good technique in bigger waves + heavy load, but needs some practice to perfect. Hammer in behind the last big one of a set; this normally brings you past the point where they break. When the next wave is approaching, turn the boat 90° to the beach and the coming wave, your paddle in a high brace and lean into the breaker when it hits. This carries the boat in front, sometimes high up the face, but more often on the smooth water right in front of the breaker. I know of people getting through 15 foot waves using this technique. I find this manoeuvre difficult using Hobie kayaks with the miragedrive in place. The fins seem to impair sideways sliding, so it’s advisable to remove the drive (leash and or bungee it down) beforehand.

D: Backwards: good cause you can get back out quick again if you have to, though not recommended for waves over 2m or dumping breakers. Once you have decided on the path in, turn your bow into the oncoming waves, and lift your rudder. Paddle in backwards. When the cresting wave approaches paddle hard forward into the wave to gain enough momentum to prevent being swept backwards by the wave. As soon as the wave runs through under you, back-paddle till the next wave is nearly on you, your paddle in the wave…you get the picture. This method offers great control, but leaves you in the danger zone longer, and you can take a hammering. Look back over your shoulder here and there, to see where you are going.

E: To Swim: This is the last resort for really heavy surf, or when one of the other methods failed and you landed in the soup. The beach should be free of obstructions like rocks and reefs. Many find it easier to swim in with the stern to the beach. Lift your rudder, and just push the boat ahead of you. The bow cuts easier through the next oncoming wave. If you get separated, the boat normally finds it own way to the beach. Again: Never get “downhill” of the boat - it could turn into a missile, so don't be in front of it.

F(ail). To flip spectacularly or to nosedive. This is the perfect back up plan, I normally decide rather suddenly to use this option!


So have fun, get wet and practice...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NAgUSBl7 ... re=related

tu nous proposes ta video Pedro